Milan Fashion Week is still a relevant event in the fashion biz? What are the innovations and the shortcomings of this long-awaited kermesse of the capital of Italian fashion?
Milan Fashion Week has just ended, leaving behind the usual wake of beautifulness and desire. However the data of the Spring-Summer ’18 edition of Milan Fashion Week in terms of attendance does not seem to be encouraging. Current womenswear edition has had less attention from public and buyers, both locals and foreigners than the previouses.
The opinion of New York Times’ Fashion Goddess seems excessive. Vanessa Friedman has indeed published an editorial that rejects Milan Fashion Week. Spring -Summer ’18 collections, according to her words are faulty of being ‘out-of-focus’. The cause? Fashion designers confused and Italian politics not addressed to fashion.
So there is a fundamental theme just about Fashion Weeks overall. Constantly changing environment, new fast fashion production logics and the obsessive, punctual and innovative race by influencers and fashion bloggers towards the novelty have made canonical fashion appointments inadequate.
On one side, the proliferation of collateral events such as cruise collections, preview collections, capsule collections stripped Milan Fashion Week the charm of the waiting, on the other someone also complains about a lack of content in new apparel creations.
However SS18 Milano Fashion Week, beyond controversy and speculation, has left a sign. Let’s recap the best moments of this event.
Gianni Versace Tribute
Donatella Versace dedicated SS18 fashion show to her brother Gianni, who disappeared twenty years ago. The collection presented at Milan Fashion Week revives 12 of the most famous prints among those proposed by Gianni Versace for the family house. Along with the new fashion icons, Donatella has amazed her parterre by bringing back to the catwalk the most famous supermodels of the Nineties. Naomi Campbell, Claudia Schiffer, Cindy Crawford, Carla Bruni and Helena Christensen have closed the parade of Versace Spring-Summer collection.
Krizia new vision
After years of sordina, Krizia comes back at Milan Fashion Week with a new vision thanks to Antonio D’Anna debut as head designer. Announced by creative director Zhu Chongyun at the Fall Winter fashion show, the young fashion designer presented his first collection. Antonio D’Anna sets a new direction to the brand, renewing the classic distinctive features of the fashion house, making Krizia shine again. A talent – his – that already foresees for important future goals.
Jil Sander new creative direction
After the discussed creative change, Luke and Lucie Meier‘s debut in Jil Sander does not disappoint.The two fashion designers, partners in the work as well as in life, have proven to be able to work in harmony with the brand diktats. The new SS18 collection is characterized by minimalism, detached sharply from the excesses of shapes and colors that dominated the brand’s latest seasons. Meyer’s spouses have returned to the brand’s roots, enhancing the sharp tailoring that in the 1980’s became Jil Sander’s distinctive feature. The garments in neutral colors, with white-colored prevalence, are the perfect balance between the two styles of Luke and Lucie. On one hand his streetwear imprinting, that matches perfectly with the venue essential architectural lines. The parade was indeed held at Fiera Milano spaces designed by architect Zaha Hadid, known for her essential lines and bright spaces. on the other hand, Lucie’s classicism, matured thanks to her experience in French luxury, at Dior and Louis Vuitton.
Green Carpet Fashion Awards
Milano Fashion Week SS18 edition was the stage for the Green Carpet Fashion Awards. The theme of fashion sustainability is on the discussion table since long time, also thanks to the constant commitment of Livia Firth, who for years has been dedicating herself to the cause. On Sunday, September 24, was held the prize-giving ceremony. Awards are based on the Principles for Sustainability of Retail, a studio developed by Italian Fashion Chamber in collaboration with Goldmann & Partners. The most virtuous fashion brands in terms of sustainability and respect for the environment has been named. Giorgio Armani, Miuccia Prada, Alessandro Michele and Pier Paolo Piccioli received the CNMI Recognition of Sustainability Award.
This year Vogue Italia went big to promote the September Issue, the most anticipated number of fashion magazines. The event was the opportunity to present the new course of the newspaper after the departure of its director, fashion lady Carla Sozzani, who has recently disappeared. The presentation party was entrusted to Riccardo Tisci, who inspired nothing but the Divine Comedy of Dante. The new beginning, this is the title of the event, was the most controversial party of Milan Fashion Week. A list of highly respected guests, from fashion attorneys to celebrities, all invited to interpret a nude look that has so debated among the little crew invited to the event.